Onychectomy, or declawing, is an elective surgery that involves ten separate amputations of a cat’s third, or distal, phalanx. This procedure involves cutting through skin, blood vessels, nerves, and tendons, as well as separating bone. While there are a couple different ways to perform the surgery, including declawing by scalpel blade or laser, the result is the same: the loss of ten bones and a higher risk for behavior problems.

Convenience Surgery
There are pros and cons to the surgery being done. The positive effects include stopping the destruction of household property due to scratching and possibly decreasing the risk of cat inflicted injury. However, the possible negative effects of the surgery far outweigh the good. There are many behavior issues that can arise from declawing a cat which include, but are not limited to, litter box issues or avoidance, a higher occurrence of biting and using teeth for destruction or defense, and anti-social seclusion behavior—all of which are top reasons owners surrender cats to animals shelters around the world. In a study published in JAVMA in January of 2001, it was found that 13 out of the 39 cats that underwent onychectomy had at least one behavior problem that began after surgery.

Many veterinarians oppose declawing on the basis of it being a convenience surgery in the same category as devocalization and tail docking. A convenience surgery is a procedure that inhibits an animal’s natural behavior in such a way that the animal becomes less problematic for its owner—in this case, declawing inhibits scratching behaviors so that cats cannot cause any damage to furniture in the house. . These procedures are always done at the expense of the animal. Declawing cats has been outlawed in 25 countries and 8 US cities due to the controversy that surrounds this surgery and the growing opinion that it is unnecessary and inhumane.

It is common knowledge that natural feline behavior includes activities such as scratching and digging. When cats are declawed, it may cause chronic pain issues that lead to the cat not using its paws properly. Even if pain is not involved, the cat is aware that parts of its paws are no longer there, and may react to this weird realization by not using their paws properly and not  performing  normal behaviors such as  scratching and digging. The absence of these behaviors can lead to litter box issues because the  cat will either not bury its excrements or stop using the litter box altogether if the litter is irritating to the paws.

Incidence of Surrender of Declawed Cats
As mentioned previously, behavior issues such as litterbox issues are a top reason for owners to surrender cats to shelters. Within the last year at Dane County Humane Society in Madison, WI, it was found that 36.5% of cats that were surrendered for litterbox issues were declawed. At first glance this percentage may not look impressive, however, it has to be compared to the estimate that only 20-25% of cats in the US are declawed. If the argument is to be made that declawing does not cause behavior issues, then the percentage of cats declawed along with the cats surrendered for litterbox issues should be proportionate. One possible conclusion that is easy to surmise is that the additional 11.5-16.5% difference is attributed to the cat being declawed. This percentage is also thought to be lower than the real value because owners are usually afraid of their cat being euthanized in a shelter if it has behavior or litterbox issues in the home, so they will give another reason for surrender such as “allergies” or “moving”. This is then suggestive that the 36.5% should be seen as an underestimation and the true percentage of declawed cats getting surrendered to animal shelters for litterbox issues, or any behavioral problem in general, is much greater. 

So what does this mean to local animal shelters when private practice and academic clinics are the places where declawing occurs? Firstly, there is an increased burden on the shelter. When receiving cats that have litterbox issues, behavior modification will be attempted in order to resolve this issue. However, since being in a shelter is an extremely stressful environment for cats to be in, this action is hard to accomplish. Secondly, with an increase in cat intake due to behavior issues of declawed cats, there is a potential for increased euthanasia rates at shelters that either humanely euthanize for time and space or non-resolvable behavior issues.  

Shelter Remedies
Nevertheless, there are steps shelters can take in order to hopefully decrease the number of declawed cats coming into shelters in the future.

​Counselling pet adopters is a huge targeting point for accomplishing this mission. If adopters understood what the surgery actually entailed and what potential complications could arise, fewer cat owners may choose to declaw their cats. Additionally, shelters need to counsel about the alternatives to declawing such as training the cat to use a scratching post, regularly trimming the cats nails, or using soft paw nail caps. An easy way to bring this into conversation with adopters would be to offer these products along with the adoption fee of the animal, or at least have them available for purchase at the shelter. This way, the client has the product in hand when they leave with their new cat and are more likely to listen to the advice about not declawing their new pet. Thirdly, shelters could take a more drastic step and include in their adoption contract that cats leaving the shelter are not allowed to be declawed. Lastly, it is important for shelter veterinarians to raise awareness in the veterinary community that declawing is having negative medical impacts  on the cats entering the shelter. Shelter veterinarians are in the best position to produce change in the views of private practice opinions of declawing. If these veterinarians were aware of the harm they were inflicting on their patients, they would no longer take the surgery as lightly as many veterinarians do. 

In Summary
Overall, it is easy to see why the procedure is surrounded by controversy not only in the veterinary world and the pet owning community, but in animal shelters as well. Humane societies and animal shelters fill many roles in their community from intake of surrendered and stray animals, educating the public about proper pet ownership, but also by forming new human-animal bonds by the many adoptions that occur daily. To ensure that this bond is as strong as possible, shelters should thoroughly discuss alternatives to declawing and methods of redirection with adopters and ensure adopters understand exactly what the declawing surgery entails. Hopefully by doing so, less cats will suffer behavior issues from declawing and, more importantly, shelters will intake fewer  cats and have more resources to allocate elsewhere within their shelter.

Works Cited:
Attitudes of owners regarding tendonectomy and onychectomy in cats. Seong C. Yeon, James A. Flanders, Janet M. Scarlett, Stacey Ayers, and Katherine A. Houpt
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, January 1, 2001, Vol. 218, No. 1 , Pages 43-47. (doi: 10.2460/javma.2001.218.43)
"End Cat Declawing | Animal Welfare | The Paw Project." End Cat Declawing | Animal Welfare | The Paw Project. N.p., n.d. Web. 02 Aug. 2016. <http://www.pawproject.org/>.
"The Ethics of Convenience." The Ethics of Convenience. N.p., n.d. Web. 02 Aug. 2016.
Pet Point Report Website. Rep. N.p., n.d. Web. <https://report.petpoint.com/Default.aspx?CompanyID=9HxE5cAVV3g=&UserID=bBGwNm86m7o=
The paw project: http://www.pawproject.org/>
 

Reduced Costs

Proper feline housing and enrichment is a large component of promoting overall feline health in a shelter environment.  Cats are affected in many ways by the type of housing they are kept in. Housing affects stress level, food intake, disease risk, and overall welfare. Housing has been linked to increased risk of upper respiratory infection as well as euthanasia in cats(2). Because of this, the cost of investing in proper housing and enrichment activities for cats is often returned by reduced cost in disease management and increased efficiency in caring for cats within the shelter.
In general, careful consideration should be taken when planning the location for cat housing. It is important that cats are housed away from the area that dogs are housed so that they cannot see or hear dogs in the shelter.  In addition, care should be taken to reduce stress due to noise, such as the noise associated with cleaning and meal preparation.

The Cage

Cats in a shelter can be housed individually or in groups. For cats housed individually, basic space requirements must be met in order to provide humane housing for these cats.  Each cat should have at least 11 square feet of space in its cage.  One way to meet this space requirement is to offer cats double compartment housing.  Double compartment housing can easily be achieved with standard metal cages by adding portals between adjacent cages. Portals can be made on your own using PVC pipes, or manufactured portals can be purchased via the UC Davis Shelter Medicine website.

The cage on one side of the portal can be used to house a bed, hiding box, and food and water. The other cage can be used as a bathroom area. A litter box should be supplied on this side that is an adequate size for the cat using it (ideally, at least 1.5 times the length of the cat) with at least 18 inches of clear space above the litter box so that the cat can posture normally when urinating and defecating.
 
Double Compartment Housing

In addition to providing adequate space for each cat, double compartment housing also promotes overall welfare by reducing stress and allowing cats to practice more natural behaviors, such as the need to separate their bathroom area from the area where they sleep and eat.  It allows for more efficient cleaning, as the portals can be closed to keep the cat on one side while the other side of the cage is cleaned. This minimizes stress due to handling for the cat and decreases disease transmission by eliminating the need for care staff to handle multiple cats when cleaning cages.
The importance of providing a hiding place has already been discussed in the article, “Giving Cats a Place to Hide… IS IMPORTANT” and should be referenced for ideas on how to provide hiding places for cats.

Group Housing

Group housing is another option for cats in shelters. It is important that cats placed in group housing are carefully monitored to ensure that they are cat-social and not stressed out by being around other cats. Cats showing any signs of social stress should be removed and placed in individual housing.  Signs of social stress include hiding, reduced activity, sitting with their back to the group, inappropriate elimination, and resource guarding.  A program for daily monitoring should be in place to identify these cats.
Cats in group housing have a greater space requirement per cat than those housed individually. Each cat requires at least 18 square feet of space.  It is often less stressful to house cats in small groups of 2-4, rather than to keep large groups of cats in larger rooms.  By having smaller groups of cats, it is easier to avoid frequent additions of new cats to an already established group. One study showed that the stress associated with frequent additions of new cats to a group housing situation led to higher incidence of herpes upper respiratory infections(3).
In addition, it would be ideal to have enough litter boxes in a group housing situation so that each cat can have its own litter box. If this is not feasible, there should at least be two non-adjacent litter boxes in the room so that cats cannot easily guard each other from using the litter box.  There should also be several non-adjacent feeding and watering stations for each cat in the room, and the cats should be monitoring when eating to ensure there is no guarding behavior occurring. Having sufficient hiding places and elevated surfaces is just as important for cats housed as a group as cats housed individually, as previously mentioned.
​
Enrichment
Providing adequate enrichment for cats in a shelter environment is important whether cats are housed individually or as a group. A lack of mental stimulation can lead to cats that are withdrawn and depressed; and therefore appear less desirable to potential adopters. These cats can be hard to identify if they are still eating, medically healthy, using the litter box appropriately, and grooming. The remainder of this article focuses on enrichment ideas for cats in shelters to help provide mental stimulation in order to keep cats behaviorally and mentally healthy as well.
 
 
Scratching Posts

Scratching posts are very important for cats. Scratching is a natural behavior for cats, and an adequate surface should be provided for cats to display this behavior. Stretch and scratch posts are available through http://stretchandscratch.com/. Shelters can add this item to their wish list, which allows donators to purchase this item and have it sent directly to the shelter. These posts are inexpensive and can be clipped onto the door of the cat’s cage so they are not taking up much space.  

Toys

Toys should be provided for all cats, and these toys should be regularly rotated and changed so that cats constantly have something new to investigate and play with. Toys do not have to be expensive. Items such as crumpled paper balls, wine corks, milk caps, paper bags,  etc. can be collected to be used for toys for cats. In addition, old paper towel rolls, plastic containers, egg cartons, and boxes can be used to make puzzle toys by stuffing food inside and cutting a small hole to access the food from. It may be helpful to establish a regular toy rotation schedule for cats so that each day they are offered something new.

Out of Cage Time

Out of cage time is another important part of cat enrichment. Having a room available for volunteers to play with and socialize cats outside of their cage can provide much needed mental stimulation for cats. This room and the items placed in it should be designed to be easily disinfected. Cats should be screened by a veterinarian first to ensure they are not suspected to be infected with any contagious diseases prior to being allowed to participate in out of cage time in this room. In addition, kittens under 5 months should not be permitted to participate in out of cage time so they are not exposed to potential infectious disease.  If a secure outdoor area for cats can be established as weather permits, many cats enjoy being able to spend some time in an outside room sunbathing as part of their out of cage time.

Clicker Training
 
Clicker training is another method of providing much needed mental stimulation for cats in a shelter environment. Detailed instructions for how to clicker train cats can be found at Karen Pryor’s website, http://www.clickertraining.com/node/409. Clicker training cats to participate in activities that make them more interactive when adopters are viewing them, such as high fives or hand shakes, may help to increase desirability of these cats as potential adoption candidates. In addition, clicker training can be used to help socialize fearful and withdrawn cats, as outlined by the previously mentioned clicker training website.

Written by Samantha Delaney, 4th year DCHS veterinary extern

As advocates for the adoption of surrendered, stray, and formerly unwanted pets there is nothing more heartwarming than watching a dog going home with their new family. When a dog is returned it is a sad moment for everyone but when a dog is returned because of a bite it is devastating for numerous reasons. Children are far and away the most common victims of dog bites according to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA). Additionally, a dog with a bite history is more challenging to make available again and find a forever home.  The truth is that most bites are preventable. What can we do, as advocates for both the dog and their new family, to help prevent this tragic scenario from playing out? There are three important objectives to recognize when considering dog bite prevention: Recognition of dog behavior, making a safe environment, and respect. 

Dogs can’t tell us how they are feeling with words but their body language speaks with just as much clarity. Some signs that a dog is uncomfortable include:

• Avoiding eye contact
• Licking their lips
• Tail tucked between their legs
• Stiffened body
• White showing around the eyes
• Moving away from a person or situation
• Crouching low on the ground
• Ears back or pulled tight against the head
• Excessive yawning

Being able to read these initial signs of discomfort in a dog are the first steps to avoiding a potential bite. Teaching new families and, especially, children is crucial for the health and happiness of everyone involved. Dogs are just like people, they have different personalities and varying levels of patience for children and the way they play. Therefore, it is also important to recognize some more intense signs of discomfort and agitation in dogs, since some dogs’ behavior might escalate faster than others:

• Intense, unblinking stare
• Lifted lip or a ‘smile-like’ grimace
• Raised fur along the dorsum
• Erect tail, might even be wagging slowly
• Growling or rumbling

These are signs the dog is at its limit and needs someone to intervene immediately to maintain a safe and comfortable environment. Even a dog that is good with children can become overstimulated with high energy playing and cross the threshold into aggressive instead of playful behavior. Playing games like tug-of-war or chase can be potential triggers for bites that aren’t malicious but stem from an over stimulated mental state. 

Creating a home environment where a dog can feel they have a place that is their own is important. A crate, kennel, or bed space where the dog can have quiet time to themselves provides them with a retreat to calm down and be alone if they need to. There are some activities that can be over stimulating to dogs and being able to separate those without excluding them can maintain safety and the family connection. Baby gates, when used appropriately, can be a great way to create boundaries without excluding the dog. Separating like this for short times is not a punishment and instead it can save them from undue stress. We don’t want adopters to separate them for long periods of the day as this can lead to behavioral problems.
 Creating a safe environment also means getting the right type of dog to fit your family lifestyle and providing them with a reliable family structure. Puppy classes, dog training, and obedience are important factors in making a dog feel secure in their position in the family. It also gives you, your children, and your dog the chance to bond in a safe environment while, at the same time, reinforcing good behaviors.
Respect
Respect is an integral part of family structure that should be extended to family pets. Teaching children to respect all animals and particularly those that live in close proximity is going to be a valuable lesson they keep into adulthood. Lessons such as teaching children to approach dogs calmly, to respect their space if they are eating or playing with a toy, and to ask permission to pet an unfamiliar dog will all lead to a happy relationship with their pet and a decreased chance of being bitten. Situations when children should respect the personal space of the family dog include when the dog is:

• Eating
• Sleeping
• Chewing on a toy
• Over stimulated/ hyperactive

In these situations treating an animal with respect and kindness can prevent bites that stem from being startled or resource guarding. 

​Dog bites are painful, scary, and often lead to a traumatic series of events for everyone involved. The chance to prevent even one of these cases from happening is worth the additional conversation with adopters. Understanding dog behavior, creating a safe environment for family pets, and educating children on appropriate behavior around dogs will all contribute to a decreased risk of a dog bites and increase that dog’s opportunity for a successful forever home.
Some websites with tools to facilitate bite prevention education including coloring pages, workbooks and magazines for children as well as materials for educators and parents are:
-The Humane Society of the United States: http://www.humanesociety.org/parents_educators/
-American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) National Bite Prevention Week materials: https://www.avma.org/Events/pethealth/Pages/Dog-Bite-Prevention-Week.aspx
-AVMA Dog Bite Prevention Podcasts and links from specialists: https://www.avma.org/public/Pages/Dog-Bite-Prevention.aspx

Canine parvovirus is one of the most potentially devastating viruses facing shelter populations. Control of this virus requires an effective vaccination program, quick recognition, quarantine, and thorough environmental disinfection. This non-enveloped, single-stranded DNA virus is resistant to extreme heat, cold, and dry conditions, and can remain in the environment for months to years.

Parvovirus attacks the epithelium of the small intestine causing severe, bloody diarrhea and life-threatening dehydration.  Other clinical signs include vomiting, lethargy, loss of appetite, and a high fever. The virus also targets the bone marrow, causing a low white blood cell count and a weakened immune system.  Although this virus can cause disease in any unvaccinated dog, it most severely affects puppies because they are immunologically vulnerable and very susceptible to infection after the waning of their maternal antibodies.  Furthermore, Parvovirus is easily transmitted in a shelter setting through exposure to infected feces and fomites.  Viral shedding can occur in infected animals before the appearance of clinical signs, making the control of this disease even more difficult.

Vaccination is essential in preventing the spread of parvovirus. 
 
A strategic vaccination program is the most important factor in the management of this disease. The modified live vaccine protects against all strains of parvovirus and is effective within 3-5 days. All adult dogs and puppies over 4 weeks should be vaccinated immediately upon arrival to the shelter.  Because of maternal antibody interference, puppies should be revaccinated every 2 weeks until they are about 5 months old.

Until puppies are fully vaccinated, they are very susceptible and should be protected from potential exposure.  Puppies should not be walked through the shelter or outdoor enclosures used by the general population.  Staff members should always wear clean gloves when interacting with the puppies and when cleaning their kennels. If possible, puppies should be sent to foster or adopted out of the shelter as soon as possible to minimize their risk of exposure.
 
Animals with a high risk of infection should be isolated in order to protect the rest of the shelter population. The incubation period of this virus is typically about 3-4 days, but can extend up to 2 weeks.  Therefore, a quarantine period of 2 weeks is sufficient to reveal whether an animal will show signs of disease.

To Quarantine or Not to Quarantine

The in-house fecal ELISA snap test is a quick and reliable way to diagnose all current strains of canine parvovirus.  Only animals showing clinical signs or with a history of recent exposure should be tested.  Although PCR testing of fecal samples at a specialized laboratory can distinguish between the different strains of the virus, it is unnecessary in a shelter setting and will not change the treatment plan. Because of the virus’s effect on the bone marrow, a low white blood cell count identified by a blood smear is characteristic of parvovirus infection.  Lastly, necropsy may reveal segmental enteritis, the classic pathological presentation of this disease.

​When an animal has been exposed to parvovirus, it is important to assess the risk of infection and determine whether the animal should be put into quarantine.  The likelihood of infection after exposure depends on the presence of maternal antibodies, the animal’s vaccination status, the amount of environmental contamination, and the proximity to the infected animal.  Antibody titer testing is useful when deciding whether to quarantine asymptomatic dogs that have been exposed.  Clinically healthy adult dogs with a history of vaccination are at low risk of infection and should not undergo titer testing. 
 
Titer testing doesn’t require an outside lab- you can order the kits yourself at (http://vaccicheck.com) and perform them “in-house.”  They require a small amount of blood and, at the time of this writing, cost approximately $16 per test (you must purchase a whole kit containing 12 tests).  See below for how you can use titer test results to identify low-risk and high-risk dogs. The cost of the tests are well worth the chance to say, “This dog is at low risk for parvo virus and can be adopted out now! No quarantine needed” (not to mention the decrease in length of shelter stay)!
 
Snap tests used in combination with titer testing in exposed puppies can help determine their infection status. For example, a puppy with a positive snap test and a positive titer is most likely infected and should be separated from other dogs.  A negative snap test and positive titer without clinical signs of disease (i.e. puppy appears completely healthy) is likely protected and low-risk. A puppy that is not shedding virus but is also susceptible to infection would have both a negative snap test and a negative titer.  The virus may be in the incubation period, and the puppy should be quarantined for two weeks.  Puppies should be bathed before entering quarantine to prevent self-infection from virus particles on the fur.  Staff members should use gloves, shoe covers, and gowns when cleaning the kennels.  Disinfecting equipment should be specific to each individual kennel to avoid cross-contamination. Dogs that do not show clinical signs after two weeks can safely re-enter the general population. 
 
Disinfection of Shelter

Because parvovirus can survive in the environment for years, thorough disinfection is a vital step in the control of this disease.  Ineffective cleaning practices can lead to persistent infections in the shelter.  Household bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite) at 1:32 dilution will successfully kill parvovirus, but only if the surface has been pre-cleaned! It is important to remove all organic matter from the surface being disinfected, as it inactivates the bleach.  Two disinfectants that are more effective in the presence of organic matter in comparison to bleach include potassium peroxymonosulfate (Trifectant) and accelerated hydrogen peroxide (Accel).  Outside enclosures present a more difficult challenge for environmental decontamination. Grass or dirt pens can be flooded, dried, and sprayed with Accel. However, because these methods are not completely effective, susceptible puppies should not use outdoor enclosures that have had recent viral exposure. 

Summary

Parvovirus can be treated in shelters that have the resources and isolation capabilities necessary to prevent an outbreak.  The treatment is mainly supportive care incorporating anti-emetics, intravenous or subcutaneous fluids, and in severe cases, blood transfusions. Because of the weakened immune system, antibiotics are given to prevent secondary bacterial infections.  Animals should be isolated for 2 weeks following recovery, since viral shedding can occur up to 14 days after the resolution of clinical signs.  If quarantine for that length of time is not feasible, you can feel reasonably confident that the dog is no longer shedding if two parvo snap tests, run after resolution of clinical signs and several days apart, are negative.  In shelters that do not have the ability to treat animals with parvovirus, humane euthanasia is sometimes performed to avoid endangering the rest of the shelter population.
 
Parvovirus poses a great challenge to shelter veterinarians.  This highly contagious and resistant virus can rapidly spread through a shelter, potentially threatening the lives of many young animals.  Fortunately, this disease can be successfully managed through widespread vaccination, strict hygiene practices, and quick isolation of sick animals.  A well-trained and dedicated staff that routinely monitors the health of all puppies can help prevent devastating outbreaks.  By implementing these management strategies, shelters can save lives and protect their most vulnerable population.
 
 
References
 
American Veterinary Medical Foundation. Canine Parvovirus. 2015. <https://owl.english.purdue.edu/owl/resource/747/08/>.
 
Baker Institute for Animal Health. Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. Animal Health Article: Canine Parvovirus. 2014. <http://www.vet.cornell.edu/baker/about/articles/CanineParvovirus.cfm>.
 
Koret Shelter Medicine Program. UC Davis Veterinary Medicine. Canine: Parvovirus (CPV). 2015. <http://www.sheltermedicine.com/library/canine-parvovirus-cpv>.
 
The Merck Veterinary Manual. Canine Parvovirus. Merck Sharp & Dohme Corp. 2009-2015. <http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/digestive_system/diseases_of_the_stomach_and_intestines_in_small_animals/canine_parvovirus.html>.

Cats are the ultimate creatures of habit. Unlike dogs, many cats never leave their homes from kitten hood until the day they arrive at a shelter. Not only are cats afraid and mourning the loss of their familiar surroundings, their keen senses pick up a variety of stressors in the shelter. Cats are stressed by the unfamiliar smells (cleaning agents, other animals) and unfamiliar sounds (barking dogs, people working, children) of their new environment. Faced with this extreme stress there are three options; fight, flight, or freeze.

The confinement of the cage takes away the option to flee, so cats must either fight or freeze. Housecats and feral cats both employ these two defense mechanisms, which makes distinguishing these two groups rather difficult. With a keen eye to feline behavior and body language, shelter staff can be trained to distinguish between these two groups.  

Feral cats are defined as those that have had no previous socialization with humans. These animals are born in the wild, and do not have a place as human companions. Confinement and human interaction are incredibly stressful for these animals, and they should be removed from the shelter as soon as possible. Many areas have trap-neuter-return (TNR) programs that work to return these animals to managed colonies. If a TNR program is not available, euthanasia is the most humane option, as rehabilitation of adult feral cats is not possible.

Well-socialized or ‘friendly’ cats are those that have been raised as companion animals. Many times these animals will still be friendly and interact with humans despite the change in environment. However, some of these animals may be particularly sensitive and will either freeze or fight when placed in a cage. Contrary to popular belief, often the most aggressive cats are former housecats who are simply scared for their lives. Many housecats will also freeze and refuse to interact, and thus may appear ‘feral.’ It is important to distinguish these felines as previously socialized so that they may be rehabilitated, either in the shelter or in a foster program, and made available for adoption. It is also important to prevent well-socialized cats from being returned to an outdoor colony where they would not be able to survive. 

Cats will typically take several days to a few weeks to start showing their normal behaviors, but research has shown that within the first four days stress levels decrease significantly. Attempts should be made to do several behavior evaluations of new intakes during this time period. One single observation will not give you an accurate indication of the cat’s previous socialization. Simply assessing the cat’s level of stress will not provide much information, but there are body language cues that can begin to be observed from day one.

Begin your observations by simply observing the cat in the cage. Cats who are in the front one-third of the cage, or who approach the front of the cage at any time are very likely to be previously socialized (Figure 1). The next step is to take a pen or soft toy and rub it behind your ear to pick up your scent. Slowly open the cage door and gently present it to the cat, making sure to keep your eyes soft and blink frequently. If the cat allows, you can try to rub the toy or pen gently along the side of the muzzle and cheeks.

The response displayed to this brief interaction can give you great insight to the previous socialization of the cat. Behaviors that strongly indicate previously socialized cats are rubbing, kneading, chirping, playing, and coming to the front of the cage. Sniffing and blinking are weaker indicators, as they could just be signs of a more relaxed and curious cat without suggesting previous socialization. Feral cats are very unlikely to show any of the strong behaviors. While hissing, spitting, or lunging at the front of the cage are simply indicators of an angry cat and do not give us insight on their level of socialization. 

By repeating this interaction at least daily you should be able to have an assessment of the cat within about three days. If you are able to take more time (the seven day mandatory stray hold in Wisconsin makes for a perfect opportunity), you can begin to try and rehabilitate any cats of which you are still unsure  A great trick is to use canned tuna or baby food to slowly ‘clicker train’ the cat to be more relaxed (see resource below). Alternatively, really shy or reactive cats can be placed in foster or a staff office. For some cats just getting out of a cage dramatically changes their behavior.

It is important to remember that when dealing with animal behavior, your assessments will never be perfect. However, as you continue to work with and observe the cats in your shelter, you will gain an appreciation for the types of behaviors displayed by feral and socialized cats. By improving your methods of determination you will be able to save more lives by more accurately placing each animal on the pathway to its best outcome.

Resources:

Slater, et al. Practical Physical and Behavior Measures to Assess the Socialization Spectrum of Cats in a Shelter-Like Setting during a Three Day Period. Animals. 2013. 3. 1162-1193.

http://www.aspcapro.org/resource/spay-neuter-feral-cats/aspca-research-cat-feral

http://www.alleycat.org

http://www.clickertraining.com

Written by Natalie Morgan

4th Year Veterinary Student Extern

July 2015

Heat Stroke and Our Animal Companions

We’ve all seen the countless headlines that tell the stories of animals who suffer the dangerous effects of Mother Nature’s extreme heat, but what exactly are those effects?  How can we, as animal caregivers, recognize an animal suffering from heat stroke and give them the help that they need?  How can we prevent heat stroke?  The following article aims to tackle these commonly encountered questions.

Introduction: When an animal’s core body temperature begins to climb, the body is normally able to counteract that increase by dissipating some of that excess heat through various mechanisms such as panting and sweating from the paw pads.  Heatstroke, however, refers to the life-threatening condition in which the core temperature climbs so high and begins to have many negative effects on the body’s normal functions and regulation that the body can no longer regulate its temperature and a very serious cascade of events unfolds.  Heatstroke is characterized by a core body temperature above 104 degrees F, central nervous system dysfunction (such as convulsions, confusion, or coma), and organ dysfunction.  The latter two result from the cells that make up those organs getting overheated and becoming damaged, thus no longer being able to do their job.  Heatstroke is more common during the summer and in hot, humid climates.  Additionally, it tends to be much more common in dogs rather than cats, though has been seen in both.  Animals that are outdoors during hot weather and do not have access to shade and water can all too easily develop heatstroke, as well as exercising them in hot, humid conditions.  Both of these situations can commonly be encountered in a shelter setting, whether the animal was picked up as a stray on a hot day, was rescued from a hot car from which it was frantically trying to escape, or if shelter animals are walked excessively in very hot weather.  If an animal presents to your shelter with a history of any of these situations, or if you are suspicious of heatstroke in an animal in your shelter on a hot day, the following is a list of signs you should look for:

Treatment of Heatstroke: 

When an animal presents to a shelter with signs similar to those listed above, it is very important that the animal is seen by a veterinarian as quickly as possible.  Their health should be rapidly assessed, beginning with their airway, breathing, and circulation (the ABCs).  These animals may require oxygen support if it is available at your shelter.  After assessing the ABCs, it is necessary to cool them down.  This can be performed by anyone, and should involve spraying the animal with cool water, placing a fan in front of them, and/or placing them on a cool metal table.

It should be stressed that the use of ice should be avoided. Placing in animal in an ice water bath or using ice packs to rapidly cool the animal’s temperature results in constriction of the blood vessels in the skin and thus the animal is less able to dissipate heat from the body.  In addition, contact with ice can be painful for the animal and also causes the animal to shiver, which is further increasing core body temperature.  Finally, active cooling should only be performed until the animal becomes comfortable.  Shivering and low body temperatures should be avoided.  Further treatment after cooling the animal should be performed only by a veterinarian.

References

1.      Scott I Johnson, DVM, Maureen McMichael, DVM, DACVECC and George White, DVM, DACVECC. “Heatstroke in small animal medicine: a clinical practice review.” Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care. 2006. 16(2) pp 112-119.

2.      “The Prevention and Management of Heat Stroke in Dogs.”Animal Medical Center of Southern California. SDG Publishing, 2015. Accessed July 12th, 2015. http://www.animalmedcenter.com/news-and-press/article/the-prevention-and-management-of-heat-stroke-in-dogs

3.      “Hot Weather Tips.” Pet Care. ASPCA , 2015. Accessed July 13th, 2015. < http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/hot-weather-tips>